Tag Archives: Siracuse

Diary of a Slow Traveler – Conference trip to California

This morning was our last coffee with our daughter before we depart for a quick trip to the USA.

I was successful in having the paper I wrote based on my Honours Thesis accepted into two conferences in California. I was so surprised as it never occurred to me that a paper based based on Honours Research would be accepted into a leading management conference. it made the time spent reformatting it whilst we were in Siracuse very worthwhile.

My desk - Siracuse, Sicily

My desk – Siracuse, Sicily

 

 

 

 

My research area was Small Family Wine Businesses, For some reason this was of interest to the organisers of 2 conferences and not just me, my long suffering supervisor and 2 very generous examiners! It gives me some hope that my PhD which I expect will extend this research may also be of interest to others.

In recent weeks the pressure has been on to get take my paper and convert its content into 2 short presentations. No easy feat I have to say and confirms one of my favourite quotes

I didn’t have time to write you a short letter, so I wrote you a long one instead     
– Mark Twain

My original thesis was about 20,000 words and the conference submission reduced this to 8000 and now my 2 presentations Continue reading

Book Review – Syracuse City of Legends – A glory of Sicily

Cathederal (Duomo)

Cathederal (Duomo)

While sitting having breakfast at the delightful Movimento Centrale Coffee shop on the island of Ortigia, Syracusa, we discovered Jeremy Dummett’s paperback version of “Syracuse City of Legends – A glory of Sicily”. It seemed an ideal companion to our extended stay in Siracusa. Just as Dummett notes when referring to the comments of late 19th Century Englishmen, Douglas Sladen, “it is a place where you can spend any space of time”.

The book is written in two parts. The first, takes the reader through the rich history of Syracuse right upto today. The second, describes the principal monuments of Siracusa. As a result it is both a history of this quite amazing place and a form of guidebook, although to call the second section a guidebook does quite an injustice.

I read the book in sequence, first the history and then the monuments, however each section is discrete which means if you are visiting, looking at the second section first would also work well. In fact, that’s what I will be doing with Jeremy Dummett’s recently published book on Palermo where will be in a week or so.

While Sicily fascinates me I am not a student of the classics and as a result have only a passing knowledge of Sicily’s rich history. Jeremy Dummett’s book provides a rich and easy to read account of the incredible history of Siracusa and with it so much of the history of Sicily itself. He provides insights into Siracusa’s wealth built and plundered on a number of occasions, as well as stories of tyrants and rulers, it’s eventual decline to a secondary city on the island of Sicily and concludes with Siracusa’s place in 21st Century Sicily.

As someone who finds social histories much more interesting than a dry account of events, regular quotes from visitors and writers from the past bring Siracusa’s history to life. References extend far back in history, including the suggestion that Homer’s reference to the small harbour and fresh water spring in The Odeyssy is to the island of Ortigia.

The city’s list of important residents and visitors seems endless. It was fascinating to read about Archimedes, his inventions and senseless death while he was apparently engrossed in resolving a mathematical problem. Siracusa was also visited on more than one occasion by Plato, I particularly enjoyed reading the rather humorous account of Palto’s final exchange with Dionysis. Continue reading

Walking where others have been – Parco Archelogico Della Neopolis

It’s interesting to know about the history of a place like Siracusa in a chronological sense but reading the personal accounts that are provided through books such as Jeremy Drummett’s Book Syracuse City of Legends – A Glory of Sicjily bring the place truly to life. Visiting Sirucusa means walking the streets and places that Plato, Archimedes and Cicreo also visited. Its a way to see these ruins not just as large stones but to imagine what it would have been like when these icons of times past were in the very same spot.

The Altar of Heiron - dedicated to Zeus Eleutherios , built by Heiron II

The Altar of Heiron – dedicated to Zeus Eleutherios , built during the time of Heiron II

Our visit to the Parco Archelogico Della Neoplolis with our two adult daughters (who joined us for a few days) brought this home quite starkly in a most disturbing manner. As we looked at the excavations of the quarries (Latomie) my eldest daughter and I discussed how they were built and the numbers of slaves that would have been needed. Her comment that she would not have made much of a slave and the subsequent obvious realization that her role as slave would not have been in the quarries was a reality check – how lucky we are to be visiting some 2 plus thousand years later.

Upper terrace - Greek Theatre with my daughters

Upper terrace – Greek Theatre with my daughters

A walk through the quarries( Latomina del Paradiso) includes the Ear of Dionysis and a Grotto dedicated to the rope makers (seems so odd to honour rope makers in today’s world). The quarries provided the stone for the ancient city and extraction would have been back breaking work for the slaves, many of whom were vanquished soldiers from the seemingly endless battles over Siracusa. The perils of losing the war in these items didn’t bare thinking about!

Latomie - The QuRries

Latomie – The Quarries

Ear of Dionysius

Ear of Dionysius

These quarries became prisons for the defeated soldiers. Continue reading

“So this is Christmas” – Christmas 2015 – Siracusa, Sicily

We weren’t sure what Christmas in Siracusa would be like.

What had been apparent in the run upto Christmas was a lack of Christmas cheer on the streets. There were no people singing carols in the streets, no Salvation Army bands, no Christmas music blaring into the streets from the shops. Only Zara seemed to be in the spirit with Spice Girls Christmas songs playing in their store.

There were Christmas decorations in the streets and houses but not the elaborate light displays we’d become used to at home. What we did see were poinsettias everywhere.

Presents under our tree

Presents under our tree

I found the lack of Christmas spirit a little surprising. Perhaps it was because unlike Australia, Christmas in Europe falls in the winter and is not the centre piece of the Summer holiday period.

That said, we approached Christmas Eve as we always have with a visit to the market. This time it wasn’t the fabulous Adelaide Central Market but the market in Ortigia, Siracusa.

Market Ortigia viewed from the Temple of Apollo

Market Ortigia viewed from the Temple of Apollo

The market is one of Siracusa’s highlights. Whether it’s freshly caught fish, fresh and usual local fruit and vegetables, bread, cheeses, meats or olives, it’s all there in a delightful little street by the sea. It was very busy with people stocking up for Christmas. We did pass on the sea urchins!

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The market has all you need if you intend to eat in, rather than visit one of the numerous trattorias, enoteccas or restaurants. We spent Christmas Eve at home which we understand is very typical of the locals.

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Just as our Christmas Days at home have been, our day started slowly with Panettone. It Is normally our chance to catch up with our children before they head off to their other events. Although there were only three of us this year, we didn’t miss the opportunity in Italy – coffee, panettone, nutella and mascarpone.

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A walk around Ortigia before lunch provided an opportunity to take in what finally seemed to be the Christmas spirit. The shops were closed but there were many bars open where families congregated for coffee. There were also the usual market stalls around the Temple of Apollo selling clothes, ceramics, mobile phone covers (I’m not sure what the fascination with mobile phone covers in Italy is?)etc. We walked upto the Duomo where a Christmas service was underway. We stayed for a short time.

Our lunch was at The Grand Hotel Ortigia. We picked this location as we had stayed there in 2008. It was an excellent choice. Local food and wines with excellent service. The restaurant had a mix of tourists such as the theee of us and locals. Situated on the roof of the hotel we had panoramic views of the harbiur making for a very pleasant way to spend Christmas lunch.

Quite possibly the largest panettone in the world!

Quite possibly the largest panettone in the world!

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As it seems with Christmas Dinner across the world we rolled out of The Grand Ortigia late in the afternoon, wondering if we would ever need to eat again!

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Post title took inspiration from the opening line from John Lennon’s Happy Christmas (War is Over)Earworm

Read the travel guide first – Noto

After a thoroughly enjoyable week or so of simply walking the streets of Siracusa, we decided it was time to venture out.

While we had been to Noto previously, we thought it was worth another visit to the UNESCO listed town. Our previous visit was in 2008 in the extreme July heat.

Noto is a baroque town rebuilt after the 1693 eruption of Mt Etna. Its honey-colored stone buildings are quite a sight.

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The train seemed the logical way to go as we are trying to avoid driving on this trip. I’ve driven in Sicily before, including to Noto, and it was not a relaxing experience for either myself or my favourite person! Noto is less than 40 kms from Siracus and the journey time is only 30 minutes by train. It was only after boarding that I found a valuable piece of travel advice that locals don’t catch the train to Noto . The train stops at the bottom of the town, a good ten plus minute walk up the hill to the town centre. That said, the train ride was enjoyable and the scenery worth taking in.

After our walk up the hill, we headed straight for the famous Cafe Sicilia for a late breakfast. We decided to sit outside meaning that we had to pay the inevitable coperto (cover charge). It was worth it, as the waiter was able to direct us to their specialty, almond soup served in a coffee mug. It was warm, sweet and quite rich – an ideal winter drink. The pastries were also quite spectacular. Sure it was more expensive than standing at the bar but it was an opportunity to relax and take in the streetscape which is very impressive. Last time it had been so hot that we’d mainly focussed on finding the shade and our stop at this famous cafe had been for Gelati.

Warm almond soup

Warm almond soup

Pastries - Caffe Sicilia

Pastries – Cafe Sicilia

After our late breakfast we took a pleasant stroll down the main street. Noto is famous for its numerous churches Continue reading